Introduction
Cosmetics have been used for thousands of years to enhance beauty and confer status. As the concept of coloring the human body may have begun as a social status marker, it eventually evolved into an art form to enhance beauty. Evidence of early lip decoration dates back to ancient Mesopotamia around 3,500 BCE, where both women and men used lip color and rouge. Evidence shows the red lip transcended time and cultures all over the world. In some cases, it was meant to symbolize power, stature, and nobility. In some cultures it was deemed unholy, disallowed, shunned, and forbidden. The red lip was a prominent marker for the oldest profession known to man. In some cultures, only the ladies of the night were allowed to wear scarlet lips, in this way signifying the sale of their bodies on the streets. Pigmenting the lips in a dominant red hue has transcended time. Perhaps the fact that this one color signifies polar opposite connotations, enticing or repelling, is why it has solidified its mark on the human race for centuries. So you decide, is red lipstick taboo or trendsetting?
Ancient Times
Red lipstick traces its origins back to ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome.
In Ancient Egypt around 2,500 BCE, lipstick became a symbol of social status and privilege, with deep red hues reserved for the elites. These elites created a red dye from the mineral malachite that they would apply to their lips. The poor used cheaper substitutes like red ochre and iron oxide. The art of enhancing the face with color was not just for females, both men and women wore makeup including lip color. Cleopatra was known for her dramatic kohl-rimmed eyes and carmine-colored lips.
In Ancient Greece, red lip color was popular among prostitutes as a way to advertise their trade. The ancient Greeks made a type of lipstick from a base of olive oil mixed with crushed red dye. Evidence shows these ancient Greeks also made red lipstick from red dye extracted from crushed ants, mulberries, sea fennel, and rose petals.
Ancient Roman women also applied lip color, often a red or purplish ointment made from henna, sea fucus, and red wine dregs. Like the ancient Greeks, Roman prostitutes were required by law to color their lips to publicly identify their profession. While initially worn by prostitutes, eventually upper-class Roman women adopted the wearing of lipstick as well. Wearing lip color was seen as a status symbol designating class, with respectable women wearing more subtle shades while prostitutes and lower classes wore bright reds.
Middle Ages
During the Middle Ages in Europe, the use of cosmetics was frowned upon by the church and considered only suitable for prostitutes and heathens. It seems as society moved from ancient times into the Middle Ages, hygiene and appearance enhancement pivoted greatly. More Than Pretty: The Middle Ages (1066-1485 CE) is a very interesting read in relation to this pivot.
Christianity in the Middle Ages, began to challenge the power of royalty. This pivot had a direct influence on the people in a more controlled and stringent way, suppressing the general population and dictating their day-to-day lives. The red lip color was associated with witchcraft and Satanism. As Christianity dictated what was righteous and acceptable, makeup was seen as promiscuous and shunned. However, some privileged noble women wore pale or light pink lip colors as a status symbol. Darker reds were mainly worn by those of ill repute. By the Middle Ages in Europe, the Catholic Church banned lip coloring as immoral and vain. But despite religious prohibitions, lip tinting continued as a discreet beauty ritual among women.
In England, red lipstick was first worn by high-class women in the 1300s. Though it still carried a stigma, the bold color was a way for royals and aristocrats to flaunt their privilege and class. As the power of the Catholic religion challenged the power of the crown, perhaps royal figures wore vivid lip color as a political power play. Yet for everyday women, anything beyond a light natural tint could be grounds for accusing them of being witches or sex workers. While red lips were sometimes an avenue for asserting dominance and prestige, they also posed dangers through their perceived immorality and sin.
Renaissance: The Renaissance of the Red Lip
The Renaissance marked a resurgence of the red lip, as the use of cosmetics became fashionable again in 16th-century Italy. Red lips came to symbolize class, wealth, and status as wearing makeup was associated with nobility and courtesans.
One of the most iconic figures known for her bold red lips was Queen Elizabeth I of England. She used a combination of cochineal, gum Arabic, egg whites, and fig milk to create a bright red lip look that made a striking impression. Red lips became a symbol of her power and sovereignty. Women of the court followed Queen Elizabeth's lead and red lips came to signify privilege, authority, and regal beauty.
The Renaissance was a time when red lipstick truly marked the upper echelons of society. A bright, ruby-red pout signified one's stature and position. The rebirth of interest in cosmetics helped solidify red lips as a beauty trend among the elite.
Victorian Era
During the Victorian era, natural beauty was preferred and makeup was controversial. Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup "impolite," and it was associated with promiscuity. The natural, pale look became fashionable.
However, despite these attitudes, some women still wore makeup very discreetly. Red lip rouge was occasionally worn, but only faint touches to avoid a scandalized reaction. Anything conspicuous was seen as vulgar. Only lower-class women, such as prostitutes, wore bold makeup looks.
This set up a dichotomy between upper-class respectability and lower-class impropriety when it came to cosmetics. Red lips became a marker of women who were rude, brazen, and lacking in virtue according to the strict social code. Makeup use overall was restrained during this era, as women tried to adhere to expectations of modesty.
Early 20th Century
As the film industry grew in the 1920s, the allure of Hollywood and its glamorous movie stars helped shape mainstream beauty ideals. Dark lipstick shades became a signature look for famous actresses like Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, and Greta Garbo. With their dramatic makeup and carefree attitudes, these stars captivated audiences and inspired trends. Women wanted to emulate the exciting, modern look of their favorite celebrities on the silver screen.
Cosmetic companies took notice, expanding their lipstick collections to include deep reds and purples for everyday use. Advertisements featured glamorous movie star endorsements, and shops opened up in Hollywood selling makeup right on the studio lots. Dark lips were no longer reserved for off-screen shenanigans. The daring color became a bold fashion statement, symbolizing female confidence, allure, and independence.
Lipstick sales continued rising as more women entered the workforce in the 1920s. A touch of lip rouge signified sophistication and class. As women earned their wages, lipstick shifted from taboo items to everyday essentials. Applying lipstick became part
of the daily grooming ritual, a small luxury that allowed women to assert their style.
World War II
During World War II, red lipstick took on a patriotic symbolism in both Britain and the United States. Women were encouraged to wear red lipstick as a show of support for the troops. In the U.S., red lips were associated with pin-up girls like Betty Grable who boosted the morale of troops abroad.
In Britain, the government even exempted lipstick from rationing during wartime shortages. British beauty company Elizabeth Arden created the "Montezuma Red" shade for Queen Elizabeth, who was then a princess. This bold red color became a symbol of feminine strength and resilience during the war.
Overall, red lipstick took on an association with bravery, patriotism, and maintaining morale during World War II. Women wore bold reds to show their support and solidarity. Red lipstick was no longer taboo and went beyond trendsetting. Red lips became a symbol of perseverance and strength.
1950s - The Iconic Red Lip
The 1950s saw red lipstick solidify its place as a beauty icon. After the more subdued war years, women were ready to embrace glamor again. The war had opened doors to women and they had a newfound power and perspective. Even though the 1950s mindset was still seen as the woman’s place in the home, women had gained a powerful feminine energy. After becoming part of the importance of production in wartime, and finding their place in the workplace, women were emboldened to want more. The idea that beauty and femininity were an outward allure, meant to draw attention, shifted. Women found their place, had a voice, and beauty became more about self-empowerment.
“Give a girl the right lipstick and she can conquer the world.” ~Marilyn Monroe
The iconic red lip was epitomized by Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor. Both are powerful free-thinking women. Red lipstick signified feminism and self-empowerment. It was a status symbol for women to declare their independence. It blurred the lines between a good girl and a vixen, women could be both. Designers like Chanel and Dior created signature reds to complement their more modernized Looks that emboldening when to be independent and confident.
Magazines and makeup ads capitalized on the popularity of the red lip, featuring glamorous models in bold reds. With women now employed there was an economic shift, and women played a major role in stimulating the economy. Women were now consumers and they had their own paychecks, and power to purchase. Great shifts took place in marketing as advertising targeted this new demographic.
The red lip look remains an iconic symbol of 1950s glamor and style. Its popularity solidified red as an essential shade that continues to dominate the makeup world today.
1960s - Today
Red lipstick has remained a staple in women's makeup routines from the 1960s through today. However, the shades and styles have varied greatly during this period.
In the 1960s, blue-toned reds were popular, inspired by pop icons like Twiggy. As disco culture took off in the 1970s, bright, fire engine reds became a bold trend. Matte finishes were also favored in this decade.
Into the 1980s and 1990s, red lipstick tones shifted to warmer, more orange-red hues. Frosted and shimmery finishes gave lipsticks a juicier look, complementing the muted eyeshadow and blush of the time. Popular products included Revlon's Cherries in the Snow and Elizabeth Arden's Red Door Red.
As we entered the new millennium, red lipstick became bolder again. True, deep reds reminiscent of the 1940s pinup era had a major revival. Long Lasting liquid lipsticks also enabled vibrant, crisp reds to stay put all day. This led to red lipstick being worn more casually and frequently than decades prior.
Today, the possibilities are endless when it comes to red lip shades and textures. Matte, satin, sheer, glossy-red lipstick now comes in every finish imaginable. Reds with blue, orange, brown, and pink undertones provide nuanced options for different skin tones. Classic reds remain staples, but unconventional shades like blackened reds, burgundies, and oxblood colors have also emerged. Red lipstick is now a makeup bag essential, with a color and finish to suit any style or occasion.
Conclusion
Red lipstick has undergone a fascinating evolution over the centuries. From being viewed as a mark of immorality in ancient times, to becoming a symbol of high social status and fashion during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, to being alternately embraced as a feminist symbol and condemned as overly provocative in modern times - red lipstick has carried enormous cultural significance.
Though styles and attitudes have continuously changed, red lipstick has endured as a powerful representation of female identity. At times worn as an act of defiance, at other times as a mark of sophistication, a bright red pout has often allowed women to assert themselves in societies where they had limited power and agency.
Today, red lipstick is largely viewed as an empowering expression of self. No longer carrying the stigmas of earlier eras, red lipstick allows wearers to put forth a desired image and mood - whether it be glamorous, rebellious, professional, or creative. Its evolution underscores how something as small as a cosmetic product can become deeply intertwined with cultural notions of gender, sexuality, and social class throughout history. Red lipsticks rich past will no doubt continue to inform its meaning and place in society moving forward. The idea that red lipstick can be taboo in the eyes of some, yet self-empowering in the eyes of others, is what keeps it trending throughout the centuries. So what do you think? Is red lipstick taboo or trendsetting?
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